Yanesen is the local nickname for Yanaka, Nezu and Sendagi, three neighborhoods that escaped much of the wartime bombing and postwar rebuilding that reshaped most of Tokyo.
Narrow lanes, wooden shopfronts and small temples give the area a feel closer to the city’s prewar past than almost anywhere else.
Cats roam freely around Yanaka Cemetery and the old shopping street, and the pace here is noticeably slower than the rest of the capital.

